 |  | |  Death has its own day in Mexico. | | | ©2005 E. Lopez | Her face is unforgettable and she goes by many names: it is death, but in Mexico, it is a very ancient tradition to celebrate her with a holiday.
The Day of the Dead, as it is known, is called "All Saints Day," or as day of the holy souls.
Renowned writer Octavio Paz observes that, undaunted by death, the Mexican has no qualms about getting up close and personal with it, noting that he "...chases after it, mocks it, courts it, hugs it, sleeps with it; it is his favorite play-thing and his most lasting."
The tradition says that the souls of the dead begin to arrive in our world from the night of Oct. 31. On Nov. 1, the souls of the angel children, or "Innocent Saints," arrive to visit their families; on Nov. 2, adult souls are free to visit their families too, explains Imelda Rendon Ibarra, a sociologist.
Meanwhile, live people, those who remain above ground, give objects and food to the dead, as well as portraits and religious images.
During this time it is believed the dead have only two days per year to visit their live relatives, a time when tombs are adorned and regaled for the return of the spirits.
For this, it is useful in Mexico to adorn each house with an altar with funeral offerings and some kind of ritual character.
An ancient usage that is still carried out consists of elaborately decorating skulls, which are considered satirical. Also children walk in the street with boxes, shortened masks and a candle to request their "Calaverita," (translated as "little skull"), a candy, a gift, or money.
Sometimes, this tradition is confused with Halloween in the United States, but experts say that Halloween is based on a medieval European concept of death, and is populated by demons, witches (usually women) and other images of terror, all of them negative.
The Day of the Dead, by contrast, is distinctly different. It is a uniquely Indo-Hispanic custom that demonstrates a strong sense of love and respect for one's ancestors; celebrates the continuance of life, family relationships, community solidarity and even finds humor after death -- all positive concepts!
"Most Mexico guidebooks make special mention of customs for the Day of the Dead, focusing on the celebrated all-night candlelight vigils in cemeteries at Janitzio Island and Mixquic to the extent that either may draw nearly as many awed observers as celebrants," states Rendon.
Mixquic, once a farming island during the Aztec empire, is now a district of Mexico City that has retained something of a rural village ambiance and its ancient indigenous roots. The area takes on a busy and festive air in the final days of October as merchants set up street stands to hawk their wares for the Day of the Dead. In the cemetery, all family burial plots are elaborately embellished with an array of earthly delights in the hope of luring departed spirits.
At 2 p.m. Nov. 1, relatives gather at each tomb to mourn the loss of loved ones with la llorada -- the weeping. Later, when dark would normally envelop the graveyard, the glow of thousands of votive candles illuminates the way for the departed. At midnight they are called home with the mournful tolling of bells, where each soul is lovingly remembered with recitations of the Holy Rosary.
Day of the Dead festivities in villages throughout the state of Michoacan have a distinctive flavor reflecting the culture of the area's Purepecha Indians. Having successfully resisted conquest in the pre-Hispanic era, this ethnic group remained immune to outside influences until the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors.
As in other parts of Mexico, floral tributes, regional repast and candlelight vigils in each local cemetery are integral to the Nov. 1 and 2 celebrations, but among the Purepechas (or Tarascans, as the Spanish named them) these activities are relegated to women and children.
Meanwhile, the male population commemorates the season with other rituals related to the fall harvest. Throngs of visitors annually trek to the Island of Janitzio to witness the graveyard vigil there, although equally colorful celebrations may be observed more serenely in most other Michoacan villages.
These Day of the Dead rituals are echoed in cities and villages throughout Mexico. As each locality offers distinctive traditions and a unique flavor bound to fascinate the curious traveler, a visit to any Mexican cemetery would be a worthwhile addition to the itinerary of anyone touring the country this time of year.
"The common foods eaten on this holiday include pan de los muertos ("bread of the dead"), which is flat bread baked in the shape of skulls and crossbones. It is said to be good luck to be the one who bites into the plastic toy skeleton hidden by the baker in each loaf. Candy in the shape of skulls, skeletons, and coffins, and many favorite Mexican dishes (tamales, moles, chiles, enchiladas) are consumed as well," continues Rendon.
Although this celebration is associated with the dead, it is not portrayed as a morbid or depressing time, but rather a period full of life, happiness, color, food, family, and fun. There is excitement everywhere. In many areas, outdoor markets are displayed in which they sell many symbolic goods, such as special breads, flowers, pottery, baskets, candles, paper puppets, candy skulls, etc.
The main symbols of this holiday are skulls and skeletons, which are displayed throughout the cities. Scenes of skeletons hugging, marching, dancing, and laughing are seen in window displays on the streets. Marigolds are another significant symbol during the Day of the Dead festivities, and are known as the "flower of the dead." Their scent is believed to "attract the souls and draw them back."
People celebrate this holiday in their households, as well as in the cemeteries. In their homes, between Oct. 31 and Nov. 2 (a time called "Todos Santos"), offerings of food and drink are prepared for the dead. "Ofrendas" (offerings) are often set up in the home on an altar displaying portraits, personal goods, clothing, favorite foods, and possessions of the deceased family members. Sometimes they are shown at the gravesites as well.
On Nov. 2, family members visit the gravesites of their loved ones. They decorate their graves with flowers, enjoy picnics consisting of favorite foods of the deceased, and socially interact with others at the cemetery. This is an important social ritual that the Latino people see as "a way of recognizing the cycle of life and death that is human existence."
In certain areas, an all-night candlelight vigil takes place by the graves of the family members. The whole occasion is festive, and everyone talks of the dead as if they were still alive. During this time, people "remember, re-live, and enjoy."
The Day of the Dead is also called "Dia de los Muertos," a holiday (or festival) which is celebrated not only in Mexico, but Ecuador, Guatemala, and other areas in Central and South America populated with the Latino ethnic background. The Day of the Dead is also celebrated in areas of the United States, such as California, Texas, and many others, in which the Mexican/American heritage exists, according to Rendon.
The Day of the Dead can range from an important cultural event, to a religious ceremony emphasizing the actual worship of the dead, to just a unique Mexican holiday symbolized by special foods and candy. In Mexico, the more urban the setting, the less people recognize the religious and cultural importance. The more rural and "Indian" the setting, the greater is the religious importance of the holiday. Therefore, this celebration is usually of greater social importance in southern Mexico than in the northern part of the country.
Today, the Day of the Dead is a cherished, complex holiday celebration where death is seen as life. The common principle for this holiday is "whatever pleased the dead in life they are to have again." It is a holiday when the whole family comes together -- both living and dead. This holiday festivity is believed to be a time for the departed to join the living in the celebrations of the "continuum of life," emphasizes Rendon.
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